Spiti road trip in Winter | Photo Courtesy: Indranil Kar
Before you start reading this blog regarding guidance and tips of Winter trip in Spiti Valley, please do watch our Winter Road Adventure in Spiti.
Life in Spiti is bitter and harsh. Especially during the Winter, when there is hardly a tourist soul wandering around. But it is the perfect time to see the local life in Spiti valley, especially if you want to be a witness to their daily harsh conditions.
You may experience the severest conditions here as the temperature plummets to – 35 degrees Celsius at night. The water taps become frozen and you may have the hard time looking for running water. However, despite all these, the beauty of Spiti valley is a beauty to behold. If you are lucky, you may get to experience snowfall in the months of December, January, February, and March. And many more – like snow leopard, blue sheep, Tibetan fox, ibex, etc.
This article aims to provide you a first-hand guide if you want to prepare your trip to Spiti. First and foremost, make sure to check the weather status before you embark on the journey to Spiti. It is always better to be aware that things can go wrong during the winters in Spiti valley and no amount of planning can help.
Travelling via the preferred routes is not a good option during the winters. That’s because of the closure of Kunzum La pass and Rohtang La. Thinking about flying to Spiti is not even an option for there is no airport available in Spiti. Very few dare to visit the place during the spine-chilling winter seasons. However, if you dare to travel to Spiti then the best option would be is to take the NH – 22 highway to Shimla. You would be crossing Kinnaur to enter Spiti Valley.
The road that takes you from Shimla to Kaza is kept open throughout the year only except during major snowfall when the stretch from Tabo to Kaza is kept close. However, that is only for a few hours. The route is also recognized to automatically help with acclimatization.
It was bone chilling cold in Spiti in January. I remember that we waited for 4 days for Sun rays at Sichling. As the weather was too bad and we couldn’t see the Sun for couple of days.
You can expect heavy snow falls at night and thick blanket of snow cover up everything in the morning. That is what we got in Sichling.
There are certain areas in between the route that is kept closed during the Winters. Like for example, in the month of October (from 15th), the passes – Kunzum La and Rohtang La are usually kept close. They are only opened around the months of May and June.
However, the Chandigarh ISBT at Sector 43 and Shimla ISBT provide excellent connectivity to Reckong Peo and Rampur in Kinnaur.
If you are looking for rented vehicles, there are plenty. You can rent an SUV or any other vehicle for your entire trip from Shimla. The charges might be a little bit higher compared to the Winters. This is because the engines need to be kept warm in the night as a result of which more engine fuel gets burnt. You could also get shared taxis plying from Rampur to Kaza and vice versa. The charges would be Rs 1000 for each seat.
You won’t get many local buses there, for the connectivity to most of the remote valleys remains closed due to snow fill. You would find only one to two buses.
You could also get shared taxis. However, the frequency of shared taxis will depend on the snowfall at various places. These are mostly sumos with over 10 to 15 people traveling. The drivers charge a very high price. Nevertheless, you will have to depend on shared taxis in order to travel safely across the most dangerous snow-filled roads.
The roads are very slippery due to the snowfall and it is not advisable to travel via motorcycle.
In case if you are looking for a comfortable mode of travel, then you should go with a recognized tour operator. Well I was glad that I was in touch with Indranil kar who is operating his own travel company called Ongoz Escapades. We planned the trip for January 2017. He arranged all the essential for us during the road trip. He was with us and took care of everything. These are the best means of traveling. You will be charged a high price. However, it would be fair since you can stop at your will for sightseeing and photography. The drivers are local people and can provide you will useful information when it comes to finding a comfortable homestay in the bitter cold.
It is best to reserve a seat in advance since most shared taxis tend to go to Losar and leave from close to the Kaza Bus stand.
Kaza will feel more or less like a ghost town with only a few vehicles passing. Chances of getting a taxi are very low here. Hence, it is advised to book a travel agent who will take the responsibility of taking care in case if your car is stuck out somewhere.
Make sure that you arrive at your destination before dark and make decisions prior arrangements for food and accommodation.
Most of the internal roads in Spiti are open during the winters. Hence, you could visit almost all the villages there. So it would be possible for you to visit Dhankar, Lhalung, and Losar in case if the roads are not deemed dangerous to ply on.
It is also recommended that you set a buffer of a day or two since chances of roads being blocked for a maximum of a day or a two could hamper your plans. These could even stretch to weeks.
Speaking of the weather, it could get bitter cold as you climb up the high altitudes of the Spiti Valley. Make sure that you check with the locals about the prevailing weather and the condition of the road and take the necessary precautions.
Most of the hotels and homestays in Spiti Valley remain closed during the Winters. The ones that are open are most simple and can provide you with the most basic amenities. Kaza is the district headquarter and therefore most travelers choose this place as the starting point and connector to other places. You could find some hotels and homestays in Kaza. Recommended place of stay is near the Kaza bus stand. Sakya Abode in Kaza, situated close to the world’s highest petrol pump of Indian Oil, finds place of stay taken care of by a very helpful owner – Tsering.
The prices that the hotels will charge you are very exorbitant and depending on your bargaining skills, the rates can scale down to around Rs 500 – 1000 per night. It is best to choose a home stay resided by a family. Apart from home stay prices, you will also get warm meals and endless cups of tea.
1. Losar – You could find two home stays right at the entrance of the Losar village, near the police check post. Both of these home stays are owned by Local Spitan families and they charge very little amount from travelers.
You could also opt for Nomad’s Cottage. It is a cozy choice but you would have to book in advance since it is situated deep in the village.
2. Sichling – Sichling is another place where you can find home stays.
3. Kibber – Kibber is one of the easiest to access villages in Spiti. You could find a homestay at Kibber.
4. Pin Valley – Tara Homestay in Mudh village is a recommended choice. Other than this, villages of Gulling, Kungri, Sagnam are other places where you can easily get a homestay.
Other than the few names suggested above, you could also find places of stay at IPH rest houses, PWD rest house, HPSEB rest house, and circuit house in rare circumstances.
Spiti during the Winter is full of beauty and adventure – different from what is seen in Summer. That is because, in Winter, you will find frozen waterfalls, trees devoid of leaves, azure blue skies, pristine freezing rivers. It is advised to travel around Spiti accompanied by a local. In case of unexpected circumstances, they will surely find a way out from any situation.
Make sure that you acclimatize yourself to the high altitude and bare cold of Kaza before attempting to visit other places. You will get eventually acclimatized while coming down all the way from NH – 22, spending some time at the monastery of Nako and walking to the semi-frozen Nako lake.
You can also stay at Tabo, which is situated at a very low altitude of 3000 m and explore the Tabo monastery. It is said to be one of the oldest monasteries in India.
Apart from the Tabo monastery, there are also other monasteries to be found in Spiti. These are – Key monastery, Sakya Gompa Monastery in Kaza, Dhankar monastery, Kungri Monastery, and other noteworthy monasteries in Spiti valley. However, depending on the amount of snowfall, you can visit these places. Do not explore the places on your own. Instead, try taking a local guide along with you.
Another place of attraction worth noting is walking on the frozen Pin river and the Spiti river.
Losar is by far the biggest and the farthest of all Spiti valleys. It is a cultural delight as well. The locals of Losar celebrate the Winter by singing traditional Spitian songs and celebrating with folk dances. You would also find young mean practicing the art of carving Buddhist prayers on mane stones.
You might find bare trees everywhere in Spiti. However, in the month of February and March, you might find blossoms of plum, almond, peach and apricot trees.
Chances of getting stuck or a group member falling sick may be high. In that case, here are some safety precautions that can help you find a solution –
#1. Do not venture too much out into the cold without covers. If you do, try to cover yourself up with warm clothes.
#2. Spend more time in the kitchen, it is the warmest part of the home stay.
#3. Do not take a bath during your stay in Spiti.
#4. Consult with the doctor and make sure that you carry a 3 course Diamox medicine along with you. Carry camphor for sniffing and a mask to prevent from breathing in dust.
#5. Try to keep yourself hydrated by drinking water and tea at regular intervals. Keep a moisturizer ready whenever you feel dry.
#6. Eating dark chocolates and nuts can help to keep your energy levels constant.
#7. Do seek help from locals in case of any trouble.
#8. Expect to use Spitian dry compost toilets in the remote places of Spiti.
#9. Make sure to keep yourself dry.
#10. Carry a pair of sunglass with you. It will protect your eyes from the harsh reflection of the snow and the glare of the sun that is usually high.
#11. Always carry a flask of warm water along with you.
#12. Carry hot water bags.
#13. Most importantly I recommend going with a group and local guides so they can help you if you are stuck in the middle of the road.
#14. Be sure to notify road JCBs that you are on the road trip, so if there is any landslides or road blockage during snowfalls they can help to clear the road as soon as possible.
#15. Be sure the guide is carrying GPS Satellite Communicator with them.
Day 1: A stay at Reckong Peo is required whichever part of India you are coming from. This is important for acclimatization. Staying at Peo (District, Headquarter Kinnaur) on the Shimla (NH-22) route will help you get used to the cold and altitude.
Day 2: See the sights of Nako Monastery in Tabo and the lake on the way.
Day 3: Sight-seeing of the dramatic fort and monastery of Dhankar before reaching Kaza.
Day 4: Explore Kaza and conduct nearby excursions to Ki Monastery and Kibber village if the road permits.
Day 5: Access the villages of Lalung, Langza, Hikkim, Demul, Komic and witnessing local Spitian life as it has existed for centuries.
Day 6: Reach Losar and enjoy your Monastery visit by walking through snow and witnessing a cultural performance of the villagers in the evening.
Day 7: If the Pin Valley road is open, then do not forget to visit Mudh village. Start the return journey and stay at Tabo / Kaza. It is the best place to be in case you are stuck in a snowfall or if the road is closed.
Day 8: keep a buffer day in case of closure of any roads and sudden turn of weather.
Day 9: Return to Shimla via Spiti and Kinnaur.
You might get to experience altitude mountain sickness while traveling, not to forget the life-threatening cold out there. Some of the villages in Spiti are located at an average altitude of 3500 to 4400 m. Such situations might become risky for the humans.
There is a hospital in Kaza that has treated a lot of patients with AMS. The charges are very low here. Make sure that you carry all kinds of medicine along with an oxygen cylinder since all primary health centers remain closed during winters.
There are not many eateries around Spiti valley in the Winters and therefore it is advised to stick to whatever food is provided by your hotel or home stay.
In the main market of Kaza, you would find two or three restaurants that search basic food stuff like momos and thukpas.You would also find cheap dhabas along the road in the towns of Karkanda, Hoorling, Spillow, and Reckong Pro.
Keep your stomach full as chances of getting food everywhere might not be possible.
It is advised to carry plenty of cash when you are traveling to Spiti. That is because you might not find an ATM working here. Even if you walk into a bank branch, like the SBI Bank Branch in Kaza, chances of getting limited cash may be high.
If you have plenty of cash, you can easily call in emergencies in case of dire circumstances such as a roadblock for two to three days.
Carry solar charged bulbs and batteries that you can use to charge your cell phones. Electricity here at Spiti is very erratic and unreliable. Usually, the electricity supply in Spiti only runs for a duration of four to five hours every day.
Surprisingly, while networks like Airtel and Vodafone is poor after crossing Pooh, BSNL network in Spiti ensure that network is available. The army camps en route also have internet connections and may allow you to use it upon request. You can access the internet or connect via wifi from a local internet café in Kaza for just Rs 60.
If you want to go in Spiti Valley in this winter or coming year’s winter season and want to experience most thrilling adventurous road trip of your life with luxurious stays or if you have any queries regarding Winter Trip to Spiti Valley you can contact us here: contact@topfivebuzz.com
All Images are copyrighted to the owner Indranil Kar. Use of these images without permission is strictly prohibited.
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